Table Top Epoxy Resin 1 litre

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Table Top Epoxy Resin 1 litre

1 litre kit - 500ml Part A & 500ml Part B

PREMIUM QUALITY : Our Artko Table Top Resin is ideal for table tops, bar tops, counter tops, artwork, paintings and can be used for any type of coating. It's a high build epoxy, glass like finish, cures crystal clear. It is suitable for pours up to 6mm (1/4").  For thicker applications please use multiple pours.

Crystal Clear Glass effect, No odour, UV stabiliser, Anti-yellowing, heat resistant, self-levelling, scratch resistant, water resistant, no sweating under high humidity, easy to use and mixes perfectly with mica powder and all other epoxy pigments, Easy to use 1:1 ratio, Our customers agree, please see our reviews.

Table Top epoxy resin: Maximum pour depth of 0.6cm (1/4"),  when poured, it will self level at approximately 0.3cm (1/8"). This resin is designed for Table Tops , Bench Tope etc and is not suitable for moulds.

Artko Table Top Artist Resin 1:1 How to use

1. Mix equal parts of Artko Artist Resin 1:1 ratio in a disposable measuring cup or bucket or use silicon mixing cup.
2. Stir slowly for 5-6mins until resin goes clear removing streaky appearance.
4. Then pour into a mould or onto a flat surface and leave to cure .
5. Cure time @ 25 degrees is touch dry 12 hrs and total cure 48 hrs


Tips
1. You can put resin bottles (Part A & Part B) into a warm water for 30 mins before mixing. This helps with bubbles and consistency.
2. You can use a mini prophane torch to burst unwanted bubbles.
3. You can also use a toothpick to burst bubbles that have risen to the surface.   

Our Artko Table Top Epoxy is high build, crystal clear polymer, glass like finish that is used on bar and table tops. This resin is an easy-to-use equal part 1:1 epoxy resin and contains 1 part resin and 1 part hardener. It’s scratch resistant, becomes harder with age, anti-yellowing, you can preserve items permanently, heat resistant to 80 degrees Celsius and water resistant. Our table top resin is UV resistant but will not provide 100% protection from UV therefore it is not recommended that items should be placed outside in a high UV area.

Preparing for Table Top Resin

Make sure your area is dust free and cover your area to protect it.

For wooden bar tops and tables these should be sanded and cleaned first.

Make sure your countertop, tables, bar top and paintings/artwork are exactly level. This epoxy is self-leveling and being level is a must.

Use a spirit level to check levels.

Make sure paintings and artworks are raised from the surface and levelled before applying epoxy.

Mixing

Combine both part A & B Epoxy together in exactly equal parts and stir slowly for 5 minutes, until cloudiness has gone, and epoxy is totally clear. Don’t lift your stirring stick out of the resin while mixing as this will cause extra bubbles. In cold weather you need to heat up your room to 21-26 degrees Celsius otherwise your epoxy will take longer to cure.

Giving you epoxy a warm bath is a great help, put both bottles A & B into warm water, not hot, and leave for around 6–8 minutes. This helps with bubbles and the viscosity.

When mixing it’s best to pour the hardener in first followed by the resin

Then combine both parts together and mix slowly for 5 minutes until epoxy is crystal clear, this helps to combine the mix more thoroughly.

Note: When staining timber, we suggest you use an alcohol/spirit based stain as an oil stain if not dried completely will cause the epoxy to fish eye.

Oil based stains need at least 5-6 days to completely dry before you can apply a seal coat.

Mix the 2 components into a larger container. The mixing container should be about 30% bigger than the amount of epoxy you are mixing so that this can be combined thoroughly.

Mixing should be done by hand only and with clean stirring sticks. Mixing will take about 5 minute and larger volumes will take longer.

Mixing is long but it’s the most important process for thoroughly combined epoxy. Do not whip the epoxy or lift it, this will cause many tiny bubbles that are hard to remove.

Pouring a seal coat

The seal coat is used to fill and cover any porous surfaces you will be working with. The seal coat will fill air pockets in wood that release air bubbles.

To apply a seal coat, start at one end and pour the epoxy the length of the surface.

This coat is to seal and not meant to build up the resin, its just to cover up the grains in the wood. For extremely porous wood and knots you may need multiple seal coats.

Note: If your seal coat goes on too thick you can end up with trapped air bubbles in cured epoxy.

Warning: When pouring epoxy onto your surface never scrape or brush out left over resin from your container you were just mixing from. Leave remaining resin in the cup and dispose or if you are using a silicone cup, leave to dry and crack out cured resin.

Pouring a flood pour

You must pour your epoxy shortly after mixing it.

Each flood coat self-levels at approximately 3.2mm thick. If depths are thicker than these multiple coats are necessary. You must wait 4hrs between flood coats.

The best way to apply flood coats is to a table is to pour down the middle and allow the epoxy to flow out.

For bars start at one end and pour the entire length.

Do not scrape any excess epoxy from your mixing cup or bucket, dispose of this. Excess epoxy in cups on the sides and bottom are often not combined properly this is why you should never scrape out your cup or bucket.

Gently use a squeegee to move your resin around, do not use brushes as they create many tiny bubbles which are extremely hard to remove.

To remove bubbles, use a small butane torch, constantly moving the torch around and just licking the surface with the flame. Never hold the flame in one place or you will burn the epoxy.

You must pour additional flood pours in 4hr – 10hr window or you will need to lightly sand with 180 -200 grit sandpaper before pouring another layer.

You can also embed items such as shell, wood, rocks etc but you will need to seal porous objects with epoxy, lacquer or polyurethane.

This epoxy can be used to apply unlimited depths of 4.7mm at a time.

Warning: Do not pour thicker coats as this can cause heat which will turn into hundreds of bubbles.

Curing

After you have finished your final coats, you need to cure in a clean and dust free environment as possible at 26 degrees Celsius.

If you room is cold, it will take longer to cure.

Paintings & Artworks

Make sure your Paintings and Artworks are completely dry. Cover your area. Place your artwork on raised surface, you can use plastic or paper cups. Your area must be completely level. Please use a spirit level to check.

If your area is not level your epoxy will not self-level and run off.

After mixing your epoxy thoroughly as explained in our mixing category pour into the centre of your painting and spread evenly with a silicone spreader or similar, do not use brushes as this will create hundreds of bubbles. After you have spread the epoxy please burst any excess bubbles with a small butane torch, never holding it in one place constantly moving licking the surface with the flame. Allow to completely cure at least for 24hrs.